The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance. Replaced entire control arm with ball joints on both sides as this was cheaper than just the ball joints. Replaced balljoint on passenger side. Replace both defective shock absorbers. Overall deducted $653 in reconditioning costs when traded. Rear shocks, front strut bushings, spark plugs 10000ths over gap, replaced with new plugs and had 60k miles maintenance performed. ), Decided to get second opinion (dealer gave first one) But, have had this clunk in the rear end of my 2017 since day one. Got car back and noticeable knocking sound in front. These forums have helped make our results possible. Our list of 1 known complaint reported can help you fix your 2017 Ford Escape. They are located under the seating area. What you could do, for a test, is to completely remove the splash shield and go for a drive to see if you notice the flapping noise. The fault was noticed by the dealer during routine, scheduled maintenance. FORD: 2013-2017 Escape ISSUE Some 2013-2017 Escape vehicles built on or before 28-Feb-2017 may exhibit a noise and/or vibration from the climate control blower motor with or without a lack of airflow from panel registers and may also have an odor. See our lemon odds and nada odds page to see vehicles with no repairs or vehicles with more than three repairs. Sounds like something is about to fall off. Clunk in front end over bumps, changed the stabilizer links, all good now! This repair was recommended during regular service. Replaced both L+R inner and outer tie rods, one side worn bad other not terrible but replaced both sides Both L+R sway bar links were worn out Replaced both front struts The rear control arms have ball joints which were worn out on both sides. Shop replaced one tie rod end, problem solved. An extended warranty can provide peace of mind. 2017 Ford Escape 4dr SUV. Tie rod ends worn out, needed replacement. Was told by dealer that Struts were covered under extended warranty but, not shocks. With that in mind, this page is divided by when you hear the whining noise, and common causes under those conditions. Overall the rubber I've replaced include tie rod ends,motor mount&windshield cowl. Bought this vehicle on June 14, 2011. Were starting to show signs of wear. Don’t notice it all the time, mainly when driving into the wind. I mentioned it to them, but they couldn't find the problem. Tie rod end went bad again and was replaced under warranty. Passenger side rear wheel-bearing failed again, excessive play, greater than 1" play. Sway bar on the rear suspension wore prematurely and became loose. I bought it with 48,000 miles, and now has 60,000 miles on it. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle intermittently hesitated while the eco-boost engine feature was activated without warning. If you need to get away…away, the compact Ford Escape crossover is certainly up to the job. Had a clunking coming from the front end area. Realigned after repair. The power steering fluid reserve was cracked. No repair - dealer unable to diagnose. The 2017 Ford Escape has 2 problems reported for excessive noise. We purchased a pre-owned 2017 Escape/Titanium at the end of July with around 16k miles. I agree that it might be the splash shield. Worn sway bar bolts and bushings. but could not tell if the top strut bearing is the source. There is a clunk from the front suspension when turning at low speed when either front wheel moves up or down. Thought it was a loose part, the dealer quickly said it was the front stabilizer links. 2017 Ford Escape SE 1.5 AWD First Test See all 32 photos This intimate sensation of driving a new vehicle that feels so similar to the "old" one can't be communicated through a … Tie Rod passenger side needed replacement. Ford escape four wheel drive models may develop an abnormal noise from the transfer case. Struts & shocked needed to be replaced. The power steering quit working. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the 2017 Ford Escape based on all problems reported for the 2017 Escape. Drove it 3 days and power steering fluid pump went out. Had a horrible noise coming form front end - kinda like something dragging but wasn't brakes. Undefined noise. replaced the front sway bar links, usual problem for ford. prior the brake control value was replaced but not effective. Front strut top stabilizers loose/worn; replaced under warranty, rear shock absorbers worn & leaking, replaced with non-OEM parts, Universal joint in steering column failed, replaced, Front torsion bar linkage worn out. 2018-20, to fascia. Mechanically I've had no issues. Also wife heard an intermittent and hard to diagnose thumping sound and dealer replaced rear shocks. New left front wheel bearing and control arm. Rear Suspension reported leaking and will need a repair soon. Replaced with Monroe quick strut since it comes with spring on it. Took 2 days. put in new bearings, new stabilizers,tie rods. FORD: 2013-2017 Escape ISSUE Some 2013-2017 Escape vehicles built on or before 28-Feb-2017 may exhibit a noise and/or vibration from the climate control blower motor with or without a lack of airflow from panel registers and may also have an odor. Very dangerous, I reported this to Transport Canada, should be recalled. K-Metal® 2117143 - Front Center Engine Splash Shield. Rear end rattling noise. Rear shocks needed to be replaced due to low fluid. Average failure mileage is 300 miles. Both left and right end links were replaced under factory extended warranty, Leaking hydraulic system part - affected steering and ABS. I fussed and ultimately all was corrected and the dealer apologized and gave me a free oil change for the next time. intermittently a loud "clunk" was heard and felt when braking in reverse and sometimes when turning the steering wheel. Clunking sound from rear driving over bumps. Car in for oil change, mechanic discovered leaking rear shock. Body side. Covered under warranty. Steering loosing power and going to manual, covered by a recall. Replaced power steering motor. Better, but not gone, shop says to bring it back. Opted not to repair. Ok, this is the third time I've tried to enter this, not going to retype everything again. Rattling noise turned out to be sway bar links. Thank you for your help. Chart based on 354 repair trips. Replaced tie rod ends and struts. Front passenger side wheel loose. Each shaft has its own clutch, hence the term “dual clutch”. Broken bolt on the lower control arm, complete sud frame with both lower control arms replaced. The car started making a "clunking" noise from the rear when I went over a bump. 2. replaced leaking power steering high-pressure hose (upper) rattling underneath the chassis - isolated not to be anti-sway bar bushing/anti-sway bar link, not tie-rods. Sill hear a noise from front end. Replaced during safety inspection. Hello kind folks - this is my very first post and I'm hoping someone can steer me in the right direction. During visit for oil change and brake job, mechanic noticed front left sway bar linkage needed to be replaced. Purchased a kit to mount shock to frame instead of factory location. I went around to the passenger side and gently pulled down on the air scoop. Tie rods were bad. Thank you - I will definitely have them check that again when I take it in Saturday. Several parts of the suspension were replaced, Clunking noise from front end. No improvement in the condition after these repairs. An update. Its a known problem with these models, brought to dealer to be replaced under warrenty. Replaced both outer tie rod ends.The dust boots were deteriorated/crumbly.Ford rubber,it seems,to me,is of inferior quality.Hope the new rubber holds up. So over time water and dirt got in and caused it to fail prematurely. It fixed the rattle. Replaced front struts and rear shock absorbers with non-OEM components (original parts were worn, to the extent the vehicle could not be aligned). I was having problems with loose steering as well as clicking when turning my steering wheel. Second time in, they could not replicate it. Also please check out the statistics and reliability analysis of Ford Escape based on all problems reported for the Escape. Replaced Tie-rod end, lower control arms, Left front half shaft, right front tone ring, struts, rotors, all four wheel sensors. Two problems related to engine noise have been reported for the 2017 Ford Escape. Front sway bars rattling. 2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT. Stabilizer bar links cracked... again. replaced rear shocks, front brakes and rotors. Lots of rattling up front. Two front sway bar (or stabilizer bar) links replaced in Dec 2008 at the same time the fluid leak was fixed. The pulsing whirring sound was proportional to wheel speed. Both CV Axles were replaced (left one twice, defective part) Both wheel bearings, struts, control arms (which also replaces all bushings and ball joints) new brake pads and rotors and tie rods. This concern may 2.5L, 2017-19. He had already warrantied the lf wheel bearing at 100000 miles, Clunking noise in front end. Less water splash to components? Lately, I've been hearing a ticking noise at very low speeds coming from the rear end. Clicking noise when turning the steering wheel while driving. Below is a list of complaints & problems filed against the 2017 FORD EDGE.These problems includes information received by NHTSA from consumers either directly or as recorded by the Vehicle Safety Hotline. Lower control arm bushings were worn - buldging, cracked. Other sides almost locked up allready. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN):1FMCU9JD0HU. Steering wheel was loose and bolts were tightened. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Rattle noises; shop identified worn links and replaced, Left front Strut leaking and making knocking sound and vibration on rough pavement. On my way to the airport I was making a corner on a cloverleaf and my steering wheel locked up not allowing me to turn my truck. Been advised that the front control arm bushings were failing & that the entire control arms have to be replaced on both sides (Ford does not allow you to just replace the bushings!). Replaced bad bearing to increase trade in value. 2017 Ford Escape 4dr SUV. I've taken it to a mechanic, and was told that the lower control arms were worn and needed to … VEHICLE SPEED: 20 mph. Replaced left front wheel bearing because it was noisy. shock absorbers replaced. Eliminated the issue. I replaced both Front and Rear stabilizer bar links. The source of the information below is the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA), which maintains TSBs for vehicles sold in the United States.If there are no TSB's listed for your … realignment part of repair. Clanking, knocking noise going over speed bumps or over pot holes. Had to slam brake. Ouch! This car is only 3 years old with only 24,000 miles. Driving vehicle into ground and will replace. Your path: TSB Home >> 2017 >> 2017 Ford >> 2017 Ford Escape The following TSB(s) may apply to your 2017 Ford Escape. Driving vehicle into ground and will replace. I have a 2017 Ford Escape SE 4wd (love the vehicle, my second one). Replacing the rear ones is easy but the front ones are under a hard black piece of the bumper making me think I'm going to have to take off the bumper. Instrumented test of the all-wheel-drive 2017 Ford Escape 2.0T. two wheel bearings and two ball joints needed for safety certification. Sounded like I was running snow tires. The splash shield is good quality, heavy plastic and fit perfectly which made it relatively easy to install. Replaced them and everythink good now. Outer passenger tie-rod ball joint seized. Despite what the dealership said, the original components didn't appear to show excessive wear, but based on milage, they were going to have to be replaced fairly soon anyway. ... 11 reviews. Also ended up having all four rotors replaced to get rid of shaking on stopping. This concern may Right side lower control arm and left side inner tie rod. There was a clunk when a wheel ran over a pot hole or off a low curb etc. When reversing the vehicle at slow speeds and turning (such as backing and turning out of a parking space), the car made a clicking noise as you turned the wheel. Power steering broke down. Replaced them with Moog links with a zerks for greasing. Passenger side rear shock mount was showing signs of failure due to corrosion. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the 2017 Ford Escape based on all problems reported for the 2017 Escape. Car 'clicks' when turning - will have to return car to dealer to re-evaluate as cars do not click when you turn. Rubber boot on ball joint failed causing ball joint failure. Dealer advised that a front end alignment wasn't possible due to warn ball joints. Left side Wheel bearing and left side ball joint replaced. Passenger side front Wheel hub was warped. Powertrain and Chassis Repair Frequencies. Pg D., ON (2017 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0-L 4 Cyl turbo) "When it's cold the console in front seems to expand and bend and makes mild squeaky sounds; it's less annoying than the wind noise" It sounded like the wheel was grinding on the axle - terrible noise. Mileage was 7000 miles. The front end of the car began to make a howling noise at highway speeds. Rocker moldings. This is very disappointing. Prompted by display showing ABS light and Service 4x4.Inspected front suspension and found multiple problems, Tie Rod end was broken Stabilizer bar needed replacement, Replaced right rear shock -- failed possibly due to severe weather conditions (heat stress) per dealer, New struts, rear shocks, lower control arms. Needs to be replaced. Dealer acknowledged problem, replaced steering shaft, problem not solved. Replaced entire arm = new arm, new bushings and ball joints. The shop replaced the tie rod end on that side and the rattling is gone. 2017 Ford Escape I have a 2017 escape. The shop replaced only the wheel bearing on front left side of vehicle. The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. Too much play, Replaced control arm and all joint due to a worn socket. I replaced both control arms (comes as an assembly with ball joint installed) Both L+R front ball joints had torn boots and were out of grease and full of dirt. Not necessarily at all, lacking some really obvious displacement or issue I don't touch the liners at all when I'm rotating/changing tires, much less give 'em a rigorous inspection looking for a loose edge. Weird random noise like thumping. I also noticed that (1) the washer was too small for the splash shield and (2) the fastener was smaller than the identical fastener on my 2016 Escape. Steering wheel loose. When it got loud enough where I went to the dealer, they said that it needed new rear shocks. Occurs randomly not able to reproduce. 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